Pointe de l'Observatoire via Aussois (Vanoise, 3015m)

The Vanoise, a national park dear to my heart. It is practically where I discovered the mountains. When I was younger I spent a lot of time in the village of Pralognan, which has always been my second home. It is in Pralognan and in the Vanoise that I had my first experiences: first in hiking, then in climbing, and finally in glacier hiking (beginner mountaineering).

The Pointe de l’Observatoire is the first committed hike that took me past 3000 m in this park. An exhilarating feeling at the time, and still today every time I come back. Sadly, mass tourism has done its work on the Pralognan side. That is why I am suggesting here the Aussois route, on the Maurienne side: the beauty of the turquoise lakes is intact, and the foot traffic stays reasonable.

Start in the clouds, the Aussois alpine pastures

We set off from the Plan d’Amont parking (2059 m). I slept there the night before in my mini-van, quiet, with a view of the lakes. The first third is almost flat, in a broad valley with a torrent, wooden footbridges and typical alpine chapels. The day I did it, low fog clung to the bottom of the valley: we walked in an unreal atmosphere, muffled voices, summits appearing and disappearing on the wind.

The Refuge du Fond d’Aussois, obligatory stop

After a good hour and a half, we reach the Refuge du Fond d’Aussois (2350 m), a classic stage on the Vanoise glaciers tour. French Alpine Club, Tibetan prayer flags at the entrance, a carved wooden sign. The welcome is good, we had a coffee, topped up water, and got back on the trail. It is also a sound plan B if the weather turns: you can cut your day short here without regret.

Climb to the pass, scree and snowfields

After the hut the scenery changes: the alpine pastures end, the mineral zone begins. The climb to the Col d’Aussois runs through unstable scree with a few sections on residual snowfields, even well into July. It is not technical in the mountaineering sense, but watch your footing.

At the pass it is always a great moment: the magic works, you see the other side of the ridge, you imagine what was hiding behind. At every bend of the climb we thought we were nearly there, and the mountain always held another ridge in reserve. Is it not worth it?

The summit, adrenaline and serenity

From the pass, you can tackle the peak. If you suffer from vertigo, I would advise against going all the way to the summit. The final ridge is narrow, exposed, and it quickly becomes impressive. If that is not your case, do not miss the chance: the sweeping view over the Vanoise glaciers, the Chaviere valley with Pralognan at the far end, the Dome de Polset, the Aiguille de Peclet with its impressive glacier (a superb introduction to mountaineering, a route I have done three times), at the foot of which sit the hut of the same name and Lac Blanc. Pure joy.

The sensation of standing on the peak is indescribable: a blend of serenity and adrenaline. You are high, razor-thin, and the wind only reminds you where you are.

Descent with chamois, return to the lakes

The descent follows the same route. We crossed a curious chamois that was grazing at a respectful distance, a little high-season bonus. Down below, the Aussois lakes are waiting, the turquoise water intact, summer flowers all around. A dip is tempting, but the water is 9-10 degrees, so at your own risk.

Practical info

1020 m of gain over 17 km, plan on 6h30 to 7h30 depending on pace and breaks. Gentle alternative: sleep at the Refuge du Fond d’Aussois. That splits the day in two and lets you leave early on firm snow. The other route, from Pralognan-la-Vanoise, also exists, shorter but busier.

For conditions, a phone call to the Aussois tourist office or to the warden of the Refuge du Fond d’Aussois will give you the real state of the snowfield and the pass. Early in the season (before mid-July), it will be more committing.