Mont Thabor via Valmeinier (Alpes, 3178m)

I had been eyeing this summit for a while, for lack of opportunities in previous years. In July 2024 the calendar finally lined up: a week in haute Maurienne to explore the area’s via ferratas with a friend, the chance to bring along my mountain partner and a friend passing through the region. We took the opportunity to slot in this Mont Thabor, nestled between the Vanoise and the Ecrins.

We set off from the Chenalette parking above Valmeinier (1747 m). On paper the elevation is tough, 1570 m, but spread over 24 km the gradient is fairly gentle for most of the route. A few days earlier I was still in the Pyrenees, and the difference in setup is clear: here, the climb is earned mostly through distance and altitude, less through incline.

The gentle valley, first half

The first hours are almost restful: a beautiful alpine valley, stone shepherd’s huts, 19th-century ruins, a torrent crossed on a wooden footbridge. The snowy summits you can just make out at the far end still look distant. We walk at a good pace, the kind of stretch where you resist checking your watch because the scenery does the job on its own.

Plateau and high-altitude lakes

Around 2500 m, the scenery changes character. A small intermediate lake acts as a natural landmark, we stop, drink, look around. Behind, the plateau rises, stone replaces grass, and you can already see the rocky wall before the pass. This is the moment when the Refuge du Mont Thabor becomes an option worth considering for those who want to split the day. You reach it at roughly midday.

The big snowfield, key section

Before reaching the pass, a very long slanted snowfield is a real challenge. We were there on July 18, and a large section still remained. You just follow the track of earlier hikers and plant your feet well, but a misstep can quickly turn into a fall. With no rock to stop the slide, it would be like a toboggan run, but with potentially serious consequences, helicopter and PGHM at the end.

I can only advise you to check the snowfield conditions carefully, wait until late season, or bring an ice axe (provided you know how to use it). We did it without gear, but I was with two people who have the mountain foot and the snow-walking technique. Without that, the atmosphere turns uncomfortable fast.

At the summit, epic panorama

But what a reward. The view is simply extraordinary. The panorama over the Ecrins range is staggering, as I had never seen it before. Turning around, the Vanoise reveals itself with the magnificent Dent Parrachee, the Dome and Aiguille de Peclet-Polset a bit to the left, and further right the Queyras with the Pic de Rochebrune, magical like a stalagmite defying the surrounding summits. Italy also opens up in front of our eyes.

We were lucky to pick one of the hottest days of summer, which let us stay in t-shirts at the summit for a good hour and a half. Do not take this as a promise: I still recommend planning for the three-layer system. At nearly 3200 m, in more typical weather, it is cutting cold.

Descent and return to the valley

The descent is on the same route, with two precautions: the snowfield is more of a trap on the way down than on the way up (you move faster, attention drops, and the slide hits on tired calves), and the length. Managing your quads on the 1570 m unfolding in reverse takes some discipline if you do not want to end up walking on locked quads.

We rejoin the green valley in the late afternoon, with the last low rays grazing the slopes, the kind of atmosphere that closes a big day well.

Practical info and safety

This is not a beginner outing. 1570 m of gain, 24 km, altitude 3178 m, and one key section on snowfield that changes radically with the season. Plan on 9 to 10 hours with breaks, plan an early start (before 7am in summer, to finish the snowfield before it softens in the afternoon).

For conditions (state of the snowfield, track, late snow cover), a phone call to the Valmeinier tourist office or to the warden of the Refuge du Mont Thabor is more reliable than any online weather forecast. If you hesitate, sleeping at the hut and tackling the pass at sunrise on still-frozen snow remains the cleanest solution technically.