Cuchon, Petite Autane, Tete du Seigneur, Grand Autane (Champsaur, 2758m)

Early June 2025. Even though spring has done a solid job, the mountain still holds plenty of snow at altitude. Committed routes are scarce, and finding a meaningful summit without wrestling too much snow is nearly a challenge in itself. Ski tourers are still at work on the north-facing slopes, proof that we are not in summer yet, despite what the calendar says.

Rummaging through the maps around Ancelle, I spot a promising string: Cuchon, Petite Autane, Tete du Seigneur, Grand Autane. An almost perfect line, facing due south, which should help me avoid the bulk of the snow. From the valley, the Cuchon and the Petite Autane are clearly visible, dry. The Grand Autane, on the other hand, keeps a lower profile. Invisible from here, but intriguing.

This time I am not in wild bivouac mode. I am staying at the Camping des Auches in Ancelle. A quiet little spot, perfect for a comfortable break after several days of unstable weather. On site, I chat with the owners, lovely and passionate. Sir is himself a seasoned hiker, and he confirms that the route, although sustained, should be doable thanks to its exposure. I still pack ice axe and crampons. The mountain does not forgive.

Cuchon and Petite Autane, warm-up

In the early morning, under a light rain, I start the climb up the Cuchon. Nothing very technical, but the weather is still fickle. The forecast promises improvement during the day, I take the gamble. Once this first summit is behind me, things get serious: the climb toward the Petite Autane (2519 m) is steep, rugged, sometimes airy. The void invites itself in, and it will not leave us.

On the ridge, things get serious

From the ridge I finally spot the Grand Autane. Majestic. Distant. High. And still well snowed on its north face. To reach it, you have to work your way along a sometimes sharp ridge, between scree, rock and snowfields. In places the “path” is no longer really a path, you have to follow cairns, improvise, scramble, put the hands down. I am probably one of the first to cross this season, the tracks are absent, and I have the mountain to myself.

Grand Autane, the solitary summit

As I climb, the landscape unfolds. At the top of the Grand Autane (2758 m), silence, vastness. The view fans out over the Devoluy, the Ecrins, the Champsaur. I feel like I am on an alpine route at 3500 m, yet we are barely at 2700. The game was well worth the candle. A grandiose hike, spectacular, demanding, exactly how I love them.

Descent along the Autanes ridge and the Col de Rouanette

For the descent I continue along the Autanes ridge. Less committing than the climb, but still airy. At the Col de Rouanette, a big snowfield awaits me. What a pleasure to cut the first track, to feel that still-cold snow underfoot. Then come the alpine pasture, the greenery, the gradual return to the valley.

Icing on the cake: I did not cross a single soul. Alone on this ridge line, suspended above the valleys. One of those days that leaves a mark, where everything lines up. A committed, wild, elegant hike, the kind to do once in a lifetime.

Anecdote, the Moure du Piurc

Below the Petite Autane, a striking rock emerges from the ground: “la Moure du Piurc”, literally “the pig’s snout” in local dialect. A name as vivid as it is precise, handed down by the elders of the Champsaur. You like to think that here, even the stones tell stories.

Practical info

1800 m of gain, 25 km, plan on 8 to 9 hours depending on your pace on the ridge. This is not a hike for beginners or even for a hurried intermediate: there are three cumulative technical sections (sharp ridge, easy climbing moves, unstable scree) that demand terrain reading and a cool head.

For conditions, a phone call to the Champsaur tourist office will give you a general picture, but the best intel comes from locals, lodges and the local campsite. If you are unsure about the commitment, Cuchon alone already makes a fine outing on its own, without the exposed part.